**Unfortunately, I am having trouble uploading photos to my blog from my phone, so please check out our Google photos drive if you are having trouble viewing them!**
Neither of us had ever left the country before this trip, so when the Mexican border patrol ushered us through without even checking our passports in San Luis Rio Colorado, we were surprised to say the least. We left the agricultural area on the US side of the border into the bustling San Luis Rio Colorado. Overwhelmed by the busy streets and busy shops, we road through the city without stopping.
We were cheered on by many folks, who whistled, waved, offered us help as we rode along. While we were nervous to speak our broken Spanish, we were encouraged by the kindness we received, and by the end of the first day, we worked our way through a few short conversations about our trip.
While we worked through our nerves about being in a new place, we rode through intense heat and humidity along the gulf coast. We would be drenched in sweat after only a few hours of riding, and would stop at any opportunity to buy a cold drink.
Stopping at the little convenience stores helped us build confidence in using our Spanish, and after a few days we were going into conversations excited to practice our terrible Spanish, rather than nervous.
Most people are very patient with us as we fumble simple phrases, and we are encouraged by kind folks like Luis, a local shop owner, who take the time and energy to have surprisingly rich conversations despite our limited vocabulary.
After riding through the heat for weeks, we finally had a break in the weather as the daily highs reached only 85 for a couple days as we road to the Pacific side of the peninsula. We enjoyed a beautiful ride over the Baja divide into El Valle de los Cirios, an especially enchanting desert with some of the craziest cactus we have ever seen.
We rode down to Guerro Negro and enjoyed a short stay in a cheap hotel room in the city. We didn’t see any whales, or tour the salt farms (the two big tourist attractions in the city), but we did enjoy a big tailwind to town, a shower and a good nights sleep before heading on our way.
We left the cool Pacific coast, climbing back into the mountains where we found ourselves feeling weak in the heat and the hills. We made it to a town labeled ‘Villa Alberto Andrés Alvarado Arámburo’ where we had a big lunch before stopping by a bike shop. We had intended to only buy a new chain and some chain lube, but upon arriving for one of our spokes broken. The owner of the shop kindly let Mark use his truing stand and tools to replace the spoke. We enjoyed learning some more important words to talk about our bike and enjoyed the comfortable familiarity of the bike shop environment.
We left town and rode quickly to get to San Ignacio before dark where we stayed in La Casa de cyclistas; Ochno, the owner, had outfitted a little campground with a shower and bathroom in his backyard specifically for cyclists and hikers. He was very kind in greeting us and the many cats made for great company as we made ourselves comfortable for the night.
We spent a little time exploring the San Ignacio mission—cerca the 1700’s— in the morning, enjoying huevos rancheros in the town square and getting an easy start to our day.
We rode down the steepest paved road I have ever ridden down into Santa Rosalia. The town looked impressive as we rode in, a huge cargo ship was docked at the port, but after buying groceries and talking to a French-Canadian couple also bicycle touring, we were ready to leave the hot, loud city. We headed out of town and enjoyed another beautiful desert campsite.
Our routine when we camp outside of a city has been to wake up and then ride to a place where we can buy burritos or huevos rancheros and the continue our day. At a little roadside cafe outside of Mulegé, we enjoyed bean burritos while the owner kindly complimented our Spanish, we were flattered to have him tell us we sounded like Mexicanos, that we didn’t need clases, but were certain his confidence in our language skills goes far beyond our competence.
After riding through Mulegé we were greeted by views of some of the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen, clear water and white sand, and after all this time riding down the coast, we got in the ocean for the first time. The water was warm, but still refreshing.
That night we camped at a restaurant at a family’s home about 30 km outside of Loreto. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and were grateful for the opportunity to camp and bathe on their property.
We are starting to feel the fatigue of being on the bike for so many days, especially in the heat, and we are looking forward to taking a week off while we take language classes in the cape. Until then, we are enjoying lots of beans, tortillas, beautiful vistas, fun rides, and the kindness of strangers!
Also check out:
Mark’s Strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/markandnic
Google Photo Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8sK1ryrupSjneZ9BA
-Nic and Mark