Cognitively, we knew that at some point on this trip we would have to deal with some real rain, but now that we are actually dealing with it, we are reminded of just how luxurious the dry weather we’ve encountered on most of this trip is. We are now in Panama, and have caught in a low pressure system that spans the majority of the Caribbean side of Costa Rica and Panama.
Our first night in Costa Rica we paid for a room in a hotel, enjoying the opportunity to make veggie sandwiches and get a shower after a long day of riding (161 km). The border crossing between Nicaragua was surprisingly easy, hardly anyone else there, and we moved through quickly and without incident.
The next night we were somewhat trepidation about paying for a campsite, feeling like we should be able to find a place to camp for free, but decided to pay for a campsite with a rain shelter, showers, and WiFi. After riding through sun and 90 degree heat in Nicaragua and the northern end of Costa Rica, we were a little surprised when we checked the forecast and saw rain projected for the next three days. And when the rain started that night, we were glad to have paid for the dry campsite.
The rain has continued since that night, off and on, leaving us not quite dry for four days now. Thankfully, during this rainy stint, we had already planned to go kayaking in Turrialba, Costa Rica (it’s much more tolerable to be on the river during the rain, where being wet is a part of the experience, rather than an inconvenience). We paid for a campsite at a small ecotour lodge that let us use their kitchen and provided a covered space to keep our tent and bike out of the rain.
Mark had worked hard to find a guide and gear that was in our price range, but we ended up not being able to kayak the famous Pacuare river because the water level was too high after all the rain. Instead we headed down the Pejibaye river. It’s a much shorter and tamer run, but it seems like that was all we were ready for since I still swam and we were both feeling less than confident in the rental gear and boats (spray skirts that didn’t fit, heavy paddles and old boats). Despite the perhaps less than ideal equipment and conditions, we enjoyed getting to know our guide and the novelty of being on a new and beautiful river and of course the simple joy of paddling downstream.
It ended up being a somewhat restful day, and we were glad to be able to cook on a stovetop and eat lots of nutritious food. We’re definitely in peak bike touring diet right now: the serving size to meet our appetite is at least two fold normal.
Back on the road we were glad to start out with some blue skies, that ended up seeing us through the day, the rain only starting up again that night. As the day came to a close, we asked a restaurant if we could camp on their property and our server, Key said she would help us out. Key introduces us to her incredible family who let us camp under their porch and even cooked us breakfast the next morning! An aspiring bike tourer herself, we enjoyed chatting through the evening and next morning.
We set off in a thankful break in the rain, and indeed spent most of the day crossing into Panama without much of a downpour. It didn’t matter, however, we were still drenched, now in sweat, as we road through the humid climate near Boca Del Toro in Panama. As the day came to an end, the rain started again and we struggled to find a place to camp in the extremely rural rainforest. We tried a restaurant that other cyclists camped at, but they turned us away saying the owner wasn’t there. We found ourselves in a small indigenous community who let us sleep under the rain structure at their park.
It was an odd day, most the people we tried to start conversations with were uninterested in talking to us. Even after securing permission to camp in the public park, only the kids were willing to talk to us. We were glad they did, because the small group of young cyclists lifted our spirits greatly.
We woke the next morning and started a challenging climb up and over the mountains dividing the continent in Panama. We were glad to reach cooler temperatures in the high country and upon reaching the Pacific side, finally leave some of the rain behind.
We broke a spoke and needing to make the repair and finding the opportunity to stay at a little hostel in the cool air, we ended our day early.
We enjoyed the incredible views from the Roots Hostel and now we are headed down to the coast where we’ve found a campsite to spend Christmas Day.
Mark’s Strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/markandnic
Google Photo Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/8sK1ryrupSjneZ9BA
Merry Christmas!
-Nic